Do-it-Yourself - How to Install Guide
1) Remove Old Doors and Hinges
2) Remove Old Drawerfronts
- If the drawerfront is also the front of the drawer box (i.e. if the drawerfront was removed, the box would have only a back and two sides) the drawerfront must be left on the box and the edges trimmed off. This procedure will be explained later but for now, leave the drawerfront on the box and set it aside.
- If the drawerfront is screwed on to the front of the drawer box (i.e. if the drawerfront was removed, the box would have a front, back and two sides) remove the drawerfront and set the box aside.
3) Match New Doors and Drawerfronts with Their Installed Location
4) Installing Hinges
Decide which side of door the hinges will be attached to, then draw a short line 2" down from the top of the door and 2" up from the bottom of the door on the back surface. Align the top of one hinge with the line at the top of the door and screw into place with the 5/8" Antique Brass Pan Head screws or white screws supplied. Align the bottom of the other hinge with the line at the bottom of the door and screw into place. Make sure the screws for the hinges in this position will not be installed into or close to the holes on the stiles for the old hinges. If the screws will align closely with the old holes, move the hinges along the edge (an equal distance for each hinge) towards the vertical centre of the door then screw into place.
Clip hinge plate onto hinge arm. Insert hinge cup into hole on back of door and push down on top to clamp into place.
5) Installing Doors
While one person centers the door over the opening flush with the bottom of the cabinet and applies pressure, the other screws the hinges to the stile using the 5/8"" Antique Brass Pan Head screws or white screws.
For cabinet openings where two doors are to be hung, lay the left door 3/8" over the stile on the hinge side then screw on. To get this 3/8" overlay, measure over 3/8" from the edge of the cabinet opening, make a pencil mark top and bottom on the stile, then align the edge of the door with the pencil mark. Be sure to leave a 1/8" gap between the doors then screw on the left door.
While one person holds the door open and flush with the bottom of the cabinet making sure the claws on the hinge plate are snug against the front of the frame, the other person screws the plate to the side of the stile using the 5/8" hinge plate screws supplied. Make sure the screws are inserted in the middle of the holes on the hinge plate as placement there will allow adjustment up and down.
These hinges can also be adjusted to move the door from side to side using the screw in the middle of the hinge arm and forward/backward by loosening the screw on the back of the hinge arm and moving the arm forward or backward on the plate. See page 1 for a Concealed Hinge picture with its' various parts labeled.
When two doors cover a single opening, allow a 1/8" gap between the doors.
6) Preparing Drawer Boxes
Drawerfront is Front of Box
If the drawerfront is also the front of the box (i.e. the box without the drawerfront has a back and two sides) use a fine tooth saw or jig saw to trim the lip around the old front even with the top, bottom and sides of the box . With the lip removed, the drawer should recede into the cabinet and be flush with the front of the cabinet. If the drawer box has side runners attached, it may be necessary to move them forward so the front will be flush with the cabinet when the box is fully receded. If the drawerfront still does not recede fully into the cabinet, remove the old drawerfront and install the new drawerfront using angle brackets attached to the sides of the box and the back of the new drawerfront.
Drawerfront is Attached to the Front of Box
If the drawer box has four sides with the drawerfront removed, simply remove the drawerfront from the box.
7) Drill Holes in Drawerfronts for Handles
Drilling holes is essentially the same for drawerfronts as for doors, however the holes must be drilled before attaching the front to the box and the handles, knobs or D-rings are not attached until after the drawerfront is fixed to the box. The only difference is that they are centered on the drawerfront and not installed as a distance from the edge. Remember the handles and D-rings have 3" between the centers of the two holes so your pencil marks should be 3" apart. Be sure to always drill from the front surface of the drawerfront through to the back.
8) Installing Drawerfronts
- Slide drawer box into opening then position drawerfront in desired location.
- Tighten a wood screw through a handle hole (through both handle holes if necessary) or a knob hole to temporarily hold the drawerfront in place. Adjust the position as necessary.
- Remove the drawer box with the new front attached and place face down on a flat surface being careful not to change its' position on the box. Cover the flat surface with a towel to ensure the drawerfront doesn't get marked.
- From the inside place a new screw on each side of the box, screw through the box front and into the new drawerfront. On Panel drawerfronts, make sure the permanent screws enter into the frame around the panel not the panel itself as it is only 3/8" thick.
- Remove temporary screws from handle or knob hole, drill through the front of the box (3/16" bit) using the holes in the drawerfront as guides.
- Using the 1 1/2" Handle Bolts, screw the handles or knobs into place.
9) Installing False Drawerfronts
You will probably have at least one drawerfront that has no box behind it, which is referred to as a false front. The drawerfront below the sink is usually a false front. Check the old drawerfront to see how it was held in place and install the same way or secure in place using angle brackets on each side affixed to the stile and the back of the drawerfront.
10) Installing Moulding
It is recommended that 1/16" hole be drilled in the Moulding where nails will be placed". This pre-drilling makes moulding installation much simpler.
11) Installing Self Adhesive Veneer
It is recommended that you prepare the surface to be covered. Remove all layers of existing coatings that are loose or peeling (such as layers of paint). Fill and sand surface with a sanding block. Make sure that the surface is free from dust, particles and oils.
Lumps will show up if surface is not clean.
- Remove from packaging and allow to flatten. DO NOT PEEL AWAY BACKER SHEET.
- Measure the surface to be covered. Before applying onto the surface, fill in old hinge screw holes with wood putty. Let wood putty dry up and then sand smooth.
- Peel back the longest edge of paper backing to expose a section of the adhesive. Place the exposed adhesive in the exact position desired, and lightly press into place. Gradually remove the backing and smooth into position. Smooth out air bubbles without applying pressure.
- Check for accurate fit before applying any pressure. Careful initial placements before use of any strong pressure will often allow for complete removal. If reposition is needed, use a gentle but sharp lifting motion to pull free of the surface. Any detachment of the adhesive may result in adhesive “stringing” or “roping” which forms lumps under the veneer.
- Rub the entire surface with a roller, applying with all possible pressure. Make sure to rub in the grain direction as cross grain strokes may mar the surface. If trapped air bubbles may be flattened by splitting the wood in the direction of the grain.
- Carefully trim off excess with an edge trimmer or razor knife. Smooth any rough edges with a sanding block. Stroke at a 45 degree angle.